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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
 Posted - 14/06/2011 : 03:24:53
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After reading Phillip Vosjoli's 'The Art of Keeping Snakes', I decided to try to make my own compost mix for when my Lucius (Western hognose) moves up into his adult viv.
The 'sample mix' I've made is using J Arthur Bower's cactus/succulent compost as the basis. i this going to be too full of chemicals? I know it's pesticide-free, but I'm not sure about fertilizer.
Do I need to make the same precautions when buying plants for the enclosure (i.e. asking how they've been kept?)
Whichever mix I end up with, would it be better than newspaper in the quarantine tank? Lucius keeps trying to dig under the newspaper floor, sometimes spilling his water dish.
I have so many questions - I just want the best for my snake, really! |
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RedHog
Egg
United Kingdom
71 Posts |
Posted - 14/06/2011 : 07:13:51
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| Aspen is the best and safest snake substrate to use, it is light and ideal for hogs to burrow, it also absorbs spillages and odours. |
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 15/06/2011 : 02:14:00
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I've read about aspen and the standard bedding, but the book I mentioned focuses on keeping snakes in naturalistic vivaria. For a display, aspen doesn't have an aesthetic quality, plus everywhere I've seen says that a natural soily substrate will provide better burrowing.
I understand the maintenance of this kind of setup, I just need to know which type of 'soil' would be suitable (as part of a safe sbtrate mix) |
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RedHog
Egg
United Kingdom
71 Posts |
Posted - 15/06/2011 : 06:47:37
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Oh I see, yes I agree aspen isn't the most of natural looking substrate, it looks like hamster bedding lol
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 19/06/2011 : 01:14:46
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Exactly :3
I'm tempted to use it for quarantine substrate though, after some thought.
Still, what kind of soil is safe for the eventual display enclosure? By the look of this cactus compost packaging, there aren't any harmful chemicals, though I'm unsure.
What dirt should I use? |
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Kehhlyr
Hognose Admin
260 Posts |
Posted - 19/06/2011 : 03:48:56
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I do use a 'dirt' with some of my other animals, but it's not totally free of many other issues.
The biggest is the humidity, without adequate ventilation the humidity can increase a huge amount. The next is waste removal, an un-noticed poo or part buried one can cause bacterial growths which isnt great.
Anyway, the 'dirt' that I use is a peat type substance, when it's damp it makes great tunneling abilities but when it dries it's very loose and wont hold tunnels but is still easy to burrow through.
I cannot remember what it is at the moment but shall find the link later, if I haven't replied within about 24 hours, then gimme a nudge to remind me. |
-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
SOME OF MY ANIMALS
 
 
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 22/06/2011 : 22:54:45
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Uh, nudge? ;)
It's probably best for me not to use my 'mix' then? No worries, I have some gorgeous succulents that will love it ;)
I've switched away from newspaper in the QT, I've gone for toilet tissue (as well as tissue/ kitchen roll scrunched up as bedding) except toady a bit of pinkie juice leaked on and he ate the bloody piece of tissue. Is this going to be a problem? I'm definitely buying some aspen as soon as I have money on Monday.
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 09:43:56
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| I would think a small bit of tissue will be digestible and it shouldn't be a problem, but do keep an eye on his bowel function for a few days. It is probably best to take him out of his viv to feed him, especially when you switch to aspen, as it's more of a problem if he swallows a piece of that. |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 13:39:18
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I wondered about that, but since I've been told not to handle him for two days after he's eaten, I didn't know if I should.
And since this is my 'newbie question' thread and I don't want to start a new one - he's currently in a RUB inside a fishtank with heat lamp and underfloor heat mat under about 1/3 or 1/4. I drop the thermostat to about 23 at night and 30 in the evening, but inside the RUB I can't seem to get a proper gradient... only a few degrees. How should I do that? (Yes, heat mat is under the same end as the lamp is pointing! Lucius has a hide each end and a water 'dish' the cool end. |
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Kehhlyr
Hognose Admin
260 Posts |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 14:03:07
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This was the peat I use, but have not used it for any snakes/lizards, only snails and scorpions: http://www.suttons.co.uk/Gardening/Garden+Equipment/Plant+Food+and+Care/All+Purpose+Compost_MH1212.htm?sku=580863
In regards your gradient, do you have one during the day? Generally when a gradient is mentioned it's never often a smooth transition from 30c downwards, mine drops from about 30c in the mat end to about 18-22c in the cool end fairly swiftly. The cool end in mine has no heat/light source shining on it, it's room temp.
Also with the feeding in a separate tub, it can be done as the moving him back in isn't like a full handling session. I feed mine in a small tub and after feeding they sit somewhere for about 20 mins for the feeding response to drop down (the female is ferocious with food) then lift them gently and put them back into their homes, or I tilt the small tubs so they make their own way back in.
Someone on one of our other forums (still can't remember who it was either) once made a perfect analogy for it: When you've eaten a massive chrimbo dinner you have the ability to walk to the sofa and chill out, but you wouldn't go for a 5 mile run
So a small 10 second lift out to put back into rub/viv is totally different to a full on wiggly 10 min handling session.  |
-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
SOME OF MY ANIMALS
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 23:07:48
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| I usually get about 28-30c in the day and 20-23 at night :S |
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Kehhlyr
Hognose Admin
260 Posts |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 23:24:08
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| In the warm end?? |
-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
SOME OF MY ANIMALS
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 24/06/2011 : 14:35:28
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Those are the gradients, from warm to cool...
It only changes a few degrees from one end tot he other. The sensors are on the outside of the RUB though.
24.7c 29.5c is the gradient I have at the moment. I've no idea whether too hot or too cold is better...he does have tissue in there and an underfloor heater as I said. |
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 24/06/2011 : 14:44:53
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Update: I've just meddled with the positions and opened the lid. The more accurate gradient reading is 24.2c [cool end] to 33.6c [warm end].
The RUB is 1'x8"x6", inside a 2'x1'x1' glass aquarium, if this is any useful information. |
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Kehhlyr
Hognose Admin
260 Posts |
Posted - 25/06/2011 : 13:23:37
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I personally wouldn't bother with the temp drop at night. Stick the thermometer probe inside the rub at the bottom as that will give a more accurate reading as it'll read the temps where the snake would mostly be.
Then get the stat probe and put it in the same place and adjust the stat to about 30c and wait for it to stabilise then check what the actual temp is with the thermometer for actual readin and adjust it accordingly.
I'm assuming your cool end doesn't get as cool as would be ideal?? |
-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
SOME OF MY ANIMALS
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Yemeyana
Snake Mite
20 Posts |
Posted - 25/06/2011 : 23:31:02
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It's now okay that the gradient is 23c to about 30 or 33c.
I thought that because they come from desert-type environments that a nighttime drop would be most natural?
Is the nighttime drop harmful...? |
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Substrate Mix
