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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
 Posted - 04/04/2011 : 14:26:43
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Hi,
I have my first long awaited hognose.
I have had him for over 3 weeks now and I haven't managed to get him to feed. Attached is pics of his setup with a zippo for size reference (sorry this was all I had to hand at the time) Do you think its his environment that is stopping him from eating? If I need to change it I wont to do so pronto as I think it will stress him again then ill be getting on to 4 weeks of not feeding. I understand this might not be a problem but its my first snake and my first pet for that matter and I just find getting this first feed a bit worrying. Any help / advice appreciated.
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2011 : 14:41:50
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My first thought was that the bulb is very bright - do you switch this off overnight? It can be stressful for snakes to be in 24 hour daylight because it disturbs their "body clock". Also, this has nothing to do with your feeding problem, but I would urge you to get a guard fitted over the bulb so that your hoggy can't come into contact with it and get himself burned.
Hoggies, especially males, can be difficult to feed, but the main thing is to keep trying at regular intervals. Where do you feed him? Many people have a separate feeding box that they move their snake into at feeding time, usually a much smaller enclosure than their permanent viv. You can also try splitting the pinkie's head so that the lovely tasty brain odour gets out - snakes like that, apparently!
Good luck with everything, hope he eats for you soon... |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2011 : 14:47:20
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply. I think the light just appears very bright because the camera on my phone is very poor.
its actually an 11w energy saving light and I use it simply to regulate his light cycle as the room has poor natural lighting. It comes on at 8am and switches off at 7pm and gives off very little heat if any, its Energy Rated "A".
At the moment im trying to feed him in his viv, but I have never managed to get him to eat as of yet. If you look on the second pic you can see a pinky near his hide on a tissue. Im really pulling my hair out, I don't know if his setups too big or not. Ive tried scenting with tuna water in brine, no joy. If I could get him to eat just once I could relax a little :( |
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2011 : 16:13:05
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That's good news about the bulb - it looked a bit worrying in the picture!
Can I ask what your set-up is in terms of heating? Do you use a thermostat to regulate the temperature? I'm sure you've already taken care of this, but it's best to make sure all the basics are right before you start looking for other causes for a snake not eating.
I think your viv looks OK for size, but snakes do tend to feel more secure in a smaller space when they're trying to eat, so I'd probably recommend putting your hoggy in a smaller box just for feeding. He might not like his food being out in the open like it is in that second picture and he might feel a bit vulnerable eating where everyone can see him! |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
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kdlang
Hatchling Hoggie
United Kingdom
157 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2011 : 16:36:35
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I am probably wrong but the only thermometer i can see is a dial thermometer almost at the top on the side. I echo what Louise has said asking about heat source, regulation and measuring.
Also he might feel better if he had small hides and more of them. Snakes tend to choose quite small spaces to curl up in. Small cardboard boxes, toilet roll tubes or egg boxes work well. You especially need one on the cold side so your snake still has somewhere to hide if he gets too warm. |
1.1.0 Hognose - Mr Hoggie, Miss Piggy
5.4.0 Corns - Swayze (ghost) Izzy (normal) Alice (amel) Peanut (butter motley) Noisy (lavender) Palace (amel) Lizzy (Normal) Connie (normal) Carmellia (butter motley)
0.1.0 cat - kizzy
1.0.0 Foster Dog - Paddy
www.support-dogs.org.uk |
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marcel
Snake Mite
Netherlands
5 Posts |
Posted - 04/04/2011 : 19:02:41
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Hello,
Have you tried to hold a pinkie with his head a few seconds in boiling water and then give it? You can also scent the pinkie by rubbing it on a toad, this made my male hog eat again after 9 weeks.
I give my hogs a lighting period of 14hrs a day.
Hope he will eat soon! |
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Kehhlyr
Hognose Admin
260 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2011 : 01:36:24
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If you could give some setup info as well.
How is it heated?
How is the temperature measured?
Is the heat source regulated? (thermostat??)
Does the viv have a warmer and cooler side?
Roughly how old is the snake?
As it stands just by the pics, I personally would say the viv/tank is both to big and far to open for it.
With most snakes having a glass tank that's open on all 4 sides with not much in the way of hidey places can be very daunting, it'd be like be out in the wide open and at risk of predation in the wild.
I'd downsize the tank as well for now, obviously how to do this also depends on the answers to the above questions as well.
3 weeks without food is not really a huge amount, so don't over worry about it yet.
Myself had a male hatchie hoggie that went nearly 3 months with only eating 2 pinkys. I (and it) are now in a routine that it will eat now, but it has taken a couple months getting there.
My female is the total opposite, you just have to possibly be a food item and she will try to eat you, so food is no problem getting down her.
There seems to be a lot of males that are fussy feeders to start compared to females. |
-=Kehhlyr - The Resident Loon
SOME OF MY ANIMALS
 
 
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2011 : 09:52:18
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I was thinking about this last night, and I was going to suggest putting in more places to hide, but I see kdlang has beaten me to it. The minimum would be one hide each at the hot and cold ends, and ideally one in the middle too. It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a toilet roll tube or you could make something up yourself out of cardboard.
I personally thought that the tank looked OK for size, but I do agree with Kehhlyr about it being a bit too open. Perhaps, if you can't afford to invest in another viv, you could cover 3 of the 4 sides with a background. I have kept my hoggy in a tank with clear sides before, and he was fine, but I did give him a lot of places to hide, so it's swings and roundabouts really.
Regards the feeding, my hoggy went for 3 months without eating once, and although I was starting to get pretty worried about him, he only lost a small amount of weight and he suffered no ill effects.
Hope all this helps! |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
Posted - 13/04/2011 : 11:58:24
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Hi guys,
thanks again for all your help. Here is his new setup, do you think this is more suited? Im really struggling now, im pretty sure he isn't getting enough heat but I don't know how to get extra heat with this setup. In his old one there was a place where I could put a heating lamp so on this one all's I can do is point a desk light at him. It is a useless analogue dial, I can't afford a digital one until weekend.
I've had him in here for a week but without the light and I covered him on all sides. Tried a feed last night but still no joy. Really getting upset about it now to be honest I don't know if I'm doing right for doing wrong. Do I put him back in the bigger setup but add more hides and put the heat lamp on? :S
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 13/04/2011 : 12:28:39
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That setup looks a lot better. I don't think you should move him around any more in case it unsettles him any further and he gets too stressed to eat. Just let him settle down into his new environment and get used to his surroundings, and leave it for a few days before you try feeding him again. Do you know when he last ate?
I see you have a heat mat, what temperature is your thermometer showing at the warm end?
I know it can be really upsetting when your snake won't eat, especially if it's your first one and you're not used to their little foibles, but try not to worry too much just at the moment. I would advise you to weigh your snake and make a note of his weight, and keep checking on him once a week to make sure he isn't losing any. You will probably find that he won't lose much weight for quite a while, but if it does start dropping, perhaps check out a local vet or reptile shop who could help you to force-feed if it becomes necessary. Where do you live - do you have a reptile vet near you?
You should also bear in mind the fact that it's breeding season, and even very young males can go off their food when their mind turns to mating. My hoggy has gone without food for 3 months at a time and been none the worse for it, so just stick with it and try not to get too upset. |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
Posted - 13/04/2011 : 12:28:44
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| Also to add I have just weighed him and he is 6.5 grams, his temp is 90f which I believe to be correct however I am going to get a digital thermometer at weekend. To be honest I've had trouble keeping the heat up so at the moment I don't regulate it. |
Edited by - CaRDiaK on 13/04/2011 12:30:45 |
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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
Posted - 01/05/2011 : 21:27:44
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Im on week 9 now without him eating. I started weighing him at week 7 and he was 6.5 g, week 8 6.5g and now at week 9 he is 6.1g.
I've crammed him into a cricket box, here is how its layed out, thermo and cd for sizing. Fingers crossed egh.
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2011 : 09:24:27
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| He is very tiny, and the weight loss is not a good sign. Do you have a reptile vet near you? It might be time for an intervention. Whereabouts do you live? |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
Edited by - LouiseB on 03/05/2011 09:24:47 |
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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2011 : 10:15:44
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| I have a friend who breeds corns coming to have a look this friday all being well. I live in Stockport just outside of Manchester. There are a few reptile places near me although some of the advice I have had off them is a bit suspect compared to what I read from breeders online therefore I'm not very trusting with them. Hoping leaving him here he will take within a week. |
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LouiseB
Yearling Hoggie
United Kingdom
624 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2011 : 10:52:00
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I had a quick look on a different forum to find details of vets near you - these all came recommended:
Hillcrest Animal Hospital - Chorley
Ashleigh Vet Centre - Manchester
Pennine Vets - Bury/Bolton
Not exactly on your doorstep, I know, but hopefully near enough. It might be a good idea to book your hoggy in for a general checkup, get some advice on feeding, and possibly help with force-feeding if it becomes necessary. If your friend isn't able to help, I would seek advice from a vet for sure.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes. |
1.0.0. Western hognose (Baldrick)
0.1.0. Amel bloodred corn snake (Cornflake)
R.I.P. Bob (Western hognose) |
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CaRDiaK
Snake Mite
33 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2011 : 11:04:27
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Wow many, many thanks for taking the time to do that list and thanks for all your advise. I will keep things upto date, hoping to get a first feed soon!
All the best.
Barry |
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CaRDiaK won't eat :(
