| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 14/06/2011 : 03:24:53
After reading Phillip Vosjoli's 'The Art of Keeping Snakes', I decided to try to make my own compost mix for when my Lucius (Western hognose) moves up into his adult viv.
The 'sample mix' I've made is using J Arthur Bower's cactus/succulent compost as the basis. i this going to be too full of chemicals? I know it's pesticide-free, but I'm not sure about fertilizer.
Do I need to make the same precautions when buying plants for the enclosure (i.e. asking how they've been kept?)
Whichever mix I end up with, would it be better than newspaper in the quarantine tank? Lucius keeps trying to dig under the newspaper floor, sometimes spilling his water dish.
I have so many questions - I just want the best for my snake, really! |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 30/06/2011 : 02:09:19
So, apparently he doesn't want to feed outside of the viv...
I tried putting him and the pinky on some card, with a hide, in a box, brained the pinky, put in a box again... no luck.
Cause for concern?
Should I try again tomorrow, or leave it another week? |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 27/06/2011 : 01:13:52
Well, if I don't get out of bed for something as important as a snake, I might not get out of bed at all some days ;)
Lucius has definitely seemed happier and more well since opening the lid, and on the most days when I drop the temperature at night.
I don't mind hard work - I'm in the planning stages of a 8+ viv stack for my cabin. I know that won't be easy to care for. |
| Kehhlyr |
Posted - 26/06/2011 : 01:04:30
If the nighttime drop is down to low the only way I could say that it might be is if you had fed that day and for some reason had a power outage the next day.
I can't think of anything that could be an issue, but then it all depends on what temp is in the warmest part during the drop as well.
I have several reptile that are recommended a drop during the night, I give a nighttime temp drop to none of them. Having to adjust and re-adjust the stats everyday could be a lot of work when it's not really necessary with a lot of species. |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 25/06/2011 : 23:31:02
It's now okay that the gradient is 23c to about 30 or 33c.
I thought that because they come from desert-type environments that a nighttime drop would be most natural?
Is the nighttime drop harmful...? |
| Kehhlyr |
Posted - 25/06/2011 : 13:23:37
I personally wouldn't bother with the temp drop at night. Stick the thermometer probe inside the rub at the bottom as that will give a more accurate reading as it'll read the temps where the snake would mostly be.
Then get the stat probe and put it in the same place and adjust the stat to about 30c and wait for it to stabilise then check what the actual temp is with the thermometer for actual readin and adjust it accordingly.
I'm assuming your cool end doesn't get as cool as would be ideal?? |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 24/06/2011 : 14:44:53
Update: I've just meddled with the positions and opened the lid. The more accurate gradient reading is 24.2c [cool end] to 33.6c [warm end].
The RUB is 1'x8"x6", inside a 2'x1'x1' glass aquarium, if this is any useful information. |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 24/06/2011 : 14:35:28
Those are the gradients, from warm to cool...
It only changes a few degrees from one end tot he other. The sensors are on the outside of the RUB though.
24.7c 29.5c is the gradient I have at the moment. I've no idea whether too hot or too cold is better...he does have tissue in there and an underfloor heater as I said. |
| Kehhlyr |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 23:24:08
In the warm end?? |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 23:07:48
I usually get about 28-30c in the day and 20-23 at night :S |
| Kehhlyr |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 14:03:07
This was the peat I use, but have not used it for any snakes/lizards, only snails and scorpions: http://www.suttons.co.uk/Gardening/Garden+Equipment/Plant+Food+and+Care/All+Purpose+Compost_MH1212.htm?sku=580863
In regards your gradient, do you have one during the day? Generally when a gradient is mentioned it's never often a smooth transition from 30c downwards, mine drops from about 30c in the mat end to about 18-22c in the cool end fairly swiftly. The cool end in mine has no heat/light source shining on it, it's room temp.
Also with the feeding in a separate tub, it can be done as the moving him back in isn't like a full handling session. I feed mine in a small tub and after feeding they sit somewhere for about 20 mins for the feeding response to drop down (the female is ferocious with food) then lift them gently and put them back into their homes, or I tilt the small tubs so they make their own way back in.
Someone on one of our other forums (still can't remember who it was either) once made a perfect analogy for it: When you've eaten a massive chrimbo dinner you have the ability to walk to the sofa and chill out, but you wouldn't go for a 5 mile run
So a small 10 second lift out to put back into rub/viv is totally different to a full on wiggly 10 min handling session.  |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 13:39:18
I wondered about that, but since I've been told not to handle him for two days after he's eaten, I didn't know if I should.
And since this is my 'newbie question' thread and I don't want to start a new one - he's currently in a RUB inside a fishtank with heat lamp and underfloor heat mat under about 1/3 or 1/4. I drop the thermostat to about 23 at night and 30 in the evening, but inside the RUB I can't seem to get a proper gradient... only a few degrees. How should I do that? (Yes, heat mat is under the same end as the lamp is pointing! Lucius has a hide each end and a water 'dish' the cool end. |
| LouiseB |
Posted - 23/06/2011 : 09:43:56
I would think a small bit of tissue will be digestible and it shouldn't be a problem, but do keep an eye on his bowel function for a few days. It is probably best to take him out of his viv to feed him, especially when you switch to aspen, as it's more of a problem if he swallows a piece of that. |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 22/06/2011 : 22:54:45
Uh, nudge? ;)
It's probably best for me not to use my 'mix' then? No worries, I have some gorgeous succulents that will love it ;)
I've switched away from newspaper in the QT, I've gone for toilet tissue (as well as tissue/ kitchen roll scrunched up as bedding) except toady a bit of pinkie juice leaked on and he ate the bloody piece of tissue. Is this going to be a problem? I'm definitely buying some aspen as soon as I have money on Monday.
|
| Kehhlyr |
Posted - 19/06/2011 : 03:48:56
I do use a 'dirt' with some of my other animals, but it's not totally free of many other issues.
The biggest is the humidity, without adequate ventilation the humidity can increase a huge amount. The next is waste removal, an un-noticed poo or part buried one can cause bacterial growths which isnt great.
Anyway, the 'dirt' that I use is a peat type substance, when it's damp it makes great tunneling abilities but when it dries it's very loose and wont hold tunnels but is still easy to burrow through.
I cannot remember what it is at the moment but shall find the link later, if I haven't replied within about 24 hours, then gimme a nudge to remind me. |
| Yemeyana |
Posted - 19/06/2011 : 01:14:46
Exactly :3
I'm tempted to use it for quarantine substrate though, after some thought.
Still, what kind of soil is safe for the eventual display enclosure? By the look of this cactus compost packaging, there aren't any harmful chemicals, though I'm unsure.
What dirt should I use? |
